Every year, the missus and I try to climb at least one bucket list summit. This year’s goal was Gerlakovsky—Slovakia’s highest summit but while organizing the climb, something or rather someone came out and we had to adapt accordingly. Koprovsky would be as adventurous and challenging as Gerlach but more accessible, so we wouldn’t need any help from a local guide in order to climb it. A perfect High Tatras hike.
Koprovsky is well deep in the Tatras near the border with Poland. Instead of doing it the “easy” way and climb in a single day from the famous resort of Strbske pleso, we would go for a two day hike starting from Hrebienok—a small funicular station connected to Stary Smolovec—the oldest resort town in Tatras. It was going to be our little expedition and we were excited from the first moment. Our little team would be Veronika, her father Marian—a seasoned climber like most Slovaks—and I.
We love the alpine character of Tatras and try to spend as much time as possible there when in Slovakia. The fact that the national park is closed most part of the year, makes each visit unique. When the gates close in November, the public has to wait for nine months for the park to open again, usually somewhere in June. You can still visit some trails but most of the park is closed for people who are not members of a climbing club. This goes only for the Slovak side (the biggest part of the mountain line), the Polish side is accessible all year round.
Trail and the Tatras
The plan was to arrive in Stary Smokovec as early as possible and take the funicular to Hrebienok (1272m). From there, we would hike Tatranska Magistrala—a peripheral trail that crosses the whole mountain line from the south—and spend the night at the refuge in Popraske pleso. Next morning, we would set for Koprovsky. Once on top of the summit, we would turn back from the same route to Popradske. There, we would take the trail to Strbske pleso in order to catch the train back to Stary Smokovec. Our little expedition was going to be a true adventure. We couldn’t wait.
The arrival at Stary Smokovec was not uneventful, since all the parking spaces in town were full. We finally found a slot at an open public parking near the train station where we could leave the car for two days. “The weather looks good,” said Veronika the moment she laid her eyes on the formidable mountain line which was overshadowing the small town. Indeed, there was no sign of rain and it was slightly overcast but we were running late; it was already noon.
This small town is the oldest mountain resort in High Tatras. There is something noble about it and you feel it the moment you set your foot on. It has traditionally been the starting point for all kinds of hikes, trips and climbs so it can get really crowded. Full of belle epoque charm and genuine central European architecture; the aristocracy used to come to Stary Smokovec for its renowned spas. Hiking and mountain tourism was a favorite activity of the upper classes back then. Funny how times change.
One of the town’s most iconic building is the Grand Hotel Stary Smokovec— a century old Art Nouveau hotel that has the architecture and ambient you find in Andereson’s classic film “The Grand Hotel Budapest”. Its charm and air of luxury still holds well. Haven’t stayed there yet but perhaps someday…
The funicular is always crowded, and it’s a good idea to be there at least 15 minutes earlier to get the tickets. There is also the choice to walk to Hrebienok (45min to an hour) but since it would be our first hike after some time, we decided to take it a bit slow to Marian’s disappointment. We had two demanding days ahead of us.
I always observe the faces in the glass funicular car. High Tatras are a beloved place for Slovaks and I could really see the anticipation on their faces. Whole families with kids, groups of youngsters and pensioners; everyone is eager to put their foot on the mountain. It’s a celebration of the great outdoors. People love and respect the Tatras. I always get this feeling when I’m in Slovakia.
The place gathers many foreigners too. High Tatras are pretty popular (and will be even more since Lonely planet has named them the best destination for 2019) and sometimes can be really crowded. This is one of the reasons why we prefer to go during autumn near the end of the season and avoid weekends. The other is to avoid the summer rains which are frequent especially in August. Of course a mountain is a mountain; it can rain and snow any given day.
Once on Hrebienok, the crowd breaks up and splits to the surrounding trails. I remember the first time I set my foot on this small resort. It was going to be the most intense climb of my life. I was about to climb Priecne sedlo—a route with the fame of being the most challenging in Slovakia. Indeed it proved to be more than just that (you can read about our climb to Priecne Sedlo in this post).
We would hike west along Tatranska magistrala—the trail that runs along the biggest part of the mountain line’s south side. Most massifs in High Tatras have a transverse orientation in comparison to the mountain line running from south to north. The magistrala runs across all these formations and the valleys between them providing access to most of the climbing routes.
The trail to Popradske is steadily ascending for the biggest part of the route. At the beginning it goes through small forests that cover the slopes but as the altitude rises beyond the tree line, the tall and thin pines give their place to short bush vegetation and finally the green moss that so characteristically decorates the granite of High Tatras Tatras.
Our first waypoint was Sliezky Dom (1670m)—a hotel on the bank of Velicke Pleso—two hours from Hrebienok. In contrast with the traditional Tatra refuges known as chatas which are made of wood and stone, this is a modern cement building. Quite expensive for Slovakia too. The fact that it is accessible by car means that it’s pretty crowded.
We stopped by for a coffee, or at least that’s what I thought so. By the time I came back from the restroom I found a pint of beer in front of my seat! I would normally avoid alcohol while going up a mountain since it can kill my legs, but refusing a drink in Slovakia is like protruding your hand for a handshake in Japan. It’s just inappropriate and travel etiquette had to be maintained.
It was lunch time but the place was too crowded for our usual picnic, so we went back on trail and kept walking west for fifteen minutes before we found a splendid granite boulder that could serve us as a table; right on the side of Tatranska magistrala. Bread and local sausage (klobasa) taste heavenly when you’re on the trail.
Even though the route is constantly uphill, it’s gradual and the mostly paved trail makes life easy for most of the time. After an hour and a half we were looking the view over the crystal waters of Batizovske pleso (1884m). From there, the road descends for a bit before elevating for once more, passing bellow summit Tura and the highest altitude of the day (2044m). This is probably the most strenuous part of the trail and I admit that I felt that pint weighing on my legs for a moment. The rest of the way is a constant decent; not easier to hike necessarily.
We were running a bit late and it was well into the afternoon; something not unusual for our little company. At one moment a small crack appeared on the dense dark clouds that where covering most of the west and the fieriest golden light passed through, washing Strbske pleso bellow us and all the plains south.
Being a photographer I know that not all sunsets are made equal and this one was one of the precious rare ones. The kind that you see three or four times a year and makes the whole world glow with a fiery red blaze. All three of us were mesmerized and the fact that we were alone on the trail made the moment even more special.
To make things more surreal, ten minutes later, a Tatra chamois came down the slope as if to admire the view—stopping us in our tracks. Indeed the animal paid us no attention and for the most part seemed to be looking at the glowing lowlands bellow. I couldn’t believe my luck, and grabbed the camera immediately fearing that it wouldn’t last more than a few seconds but I was wrong. Veronika started talking to it with a calm voice and Marian tried to tempt it with a piece of bread but clearly the chamois was not interested in us. After satisfying its curiosity, the animal started grazing around, still not paying any attention to us who were no more than fifteen meters away. Eventually, after two or three minutes, it turned around and with a few strides disappeared, as abruptly as it had arrived.
Not long after, we were standing on the edge of Ostrva saddle (1966m) where we laid our eyes on Mengusovska valley and the magnificent Popradske pleso (1500m) for the first time. At the other end of the valley, the lone summit of Koprovsky was inviting us. This is one of the most beautiful vantage points in High Tatras and especially that afternoon it was just majestic. A long shadow was cast across Mengusovska from Hrebeň Bašt—the huge vertical wall that rises on the west side of the valley for the whole of its length. The first peak of the wall—Patria, was ablaze from the last light of the day and dark grey clouds were dancing on the glassy lake surface.
This wall is consisted from a series of peaks the first being Patria followed by another ten peaks with Satan in the middle being the highest and most known. At the end of this line, a saddle that turns into a ridge connects Hrebeň Bašt to Koprovsky. Another two ridges divide the valleys bellow and join at the top giving Koprovsky a triangular pyramid shape.
Half a kilometer bellow, Horsky hotel had turned its lights on, marking the final destination of the day and reminding us that we had one last steep decent before unloading our backpacks and having a rest. The trail going down the valley is a series of zig zags on the north wall of Ostrva saddle. It’s pretty steep and layered with smaller loose rocks, but it’s well protected and doesn’t pose any safety problem.
Forty five minutes later, we were standing in front of the reception, watching the guests coming and going. It’s a beautiful wooden hotel built right on the north shore of Popradske pleso. Nothing fancy, and it doesn’t have to be since it’s one of the most scenic and beautifully located hotels I’ve ever laid my eyes on. Many walls are decorated with fantastic photographs from Ladislav Janiga—perhaps Slovakia’s most prominent landscape photographer with an extended body of work shot on Tatras. A warm plate of goulash followed by a shower was exactly what the doctor had ordered. We slept like logs.
Next morning I woke up before sunrise to shoot some landscape as usual. I was hoping for fog over the lake but that wouldn’t be the case. Still, the atmosphere was very clear and the lake doesn’t really have a bad side. I wished I had brought my extra wide lens but there is only so much weight I can carry in my backpack.
I love Popradske. I could stay there for a week and do nothing more than reading on the gorgeous porch while sipping tea, occasionally watching the reflection of the surrounding vistas on the tarn’s crystal waters getting interrupted by the ducks.
This place seems so small in the belly of Mengusovska valley the way it is surrounded by those towering massifs. Feels like a microcosm a million miles away from everything. Magical.
Back to reality, after a small breakfast and coffee, we checked our gear, packed the backpacks and left for Koprovsky. The day was sunny so we set early to avoid climbing when the sun would be at its strongest. The trail begins outside the refuge and goes east through a small forest. It’s the way to Strpske pleso before reaching a crossroad where the trail for Koprovsky and Rysy leads north, deeper into the ascending valley.
Next to the crossroads is a big box with several bags full of provisions. People going to Rysy can carry them to the refuge which is located near the summit, in order to help the people there. Most supplies are lugged by local mountain porters who are the last of their kind in Europe. Some, can carry more than 100kgs on wooden frames strapped on their backs. Food, drinks, fuel for heating, toilet paper on the way up and garbage on the way down; everything is being carried by these stout fellows. During winter as well. They are employed by the chatas (refuges) who need them in order to run on a daily basis. As for the volunteers who carry a little something–they get rewarded for the kindness with one hot cup of tea.
The first section is a mild ascend initially through forest, but gradually the vegetation becomes shorter and thinner till it’s being reduced to just grass. One and a half kilometer down the trail we crossed Hincov stream on a small wooden bridge (1665m) and stopped there for brunch. The imposing wall of Hrebeň Bašt seemed colossal above us.
From there, the ascent became much steeper and for the next kilometer we gained almost 300 vertical meters to a plateau with two lakes—the small and big Hincovo. We stopped there for a break before the next push. I looked at Koprovsky which was still four hundred meters above us but looked more like a thousand. Mountains have this—they look impossible from beneath and too easy from the top.
The first step was to climb onto Koprovsky pass (2180m) which separates Mengusovska and Hlinska valleys, connecting Koprovska peak with Koprovsky summit. This is the steepest part of the climb. But on the bright side, the trail is very good with zigzags and even stairs made from wooden frames and stone.
Once up there, we stopped for a few minutes to catch our breath. On the way up, the saddle turns into a ridge which is narrow at points but never really exposed. The views are amazing from up there. Hlinska valley was like a highway with low cloud formations racing from east to west and over our heads.
At some point midway, I looked at the peak in front of us and thought “we are here”, but it was just a small peak before Koprovsky. The real summit stood tall and formidable behind it, intimidating us for a moment with the height difference and the ruggedness of its south face.
The more we advanced, the more the ridge became narrow and rough, but remained always safe, with the exception of one slightly exposed part where the width was something like a meter and a half. At that point, the two lakes beneath looked like two small gems. The last section was quite steep but the big chunks of granite helped. We had to scramble some parts but nothing major. A red and white circle on the stone marked the summit, and sooner than later we were sitting on top of Koprovsky.
The moment we set our foot on the summit, my tiredness disappeared. And the few remaining thoughts and worries that had refused to unclench my mind since I had arrived on Tatras, also vanished, or rather stayed behind with all the mundane earthly disturbances bellow. We were in the heart of High Tatras. There were only peaks and valleys as far as my eye could reach.
The top is long and narrow, layered with sharp granite slabs. Multiple hundred meter falls surround the summit from every side except for the south. It was a bit crowded but the majority of people were sitting and admiring the awe-inspiring nature all around us. Slovak people have a certain casualness when it comes to mountains and climbing; especially the middle aged ones. They may climb for hours just for the joy of sitting quietly and having a can of beer on the top. Then, they put the can back to their backpack and take the way home. No cheering, or high fives, just the joy of being there. A real mountain culture that has its roots deep in the history of the country. I was happy to see people over seventy years old scrambling the granite.
From up there you have a clear view of Hlinska and Mengusovska valleys to the east and west respectively, as well as Temnosmrečinská with its two great lakes to the north. Some of most iconic summits of High Tatras are also visible: Rysy and Vysoka to the east, Satan to the north as well as the tip of legendary Krivan peeking out from the south. The visibility was changing rapidly from a few meters to kilometers all the time.
I can’t think of a better place to have a lunch after a tiring but very fulfilling day. We spent almost an hour there, eating and talking with the climbers. After sometime I was really eager to launch the drone and get some shots but I didn’t want to spoil it for the rest. Eventually Veronika gave the solution. She went around and asked every single person if it was alright. They all said yes, and I was able to shoot some amazing footage! That was really the cherry on top.
The way back to Popradske and Strbske was long, but a sweet euphoria and the golden light of the setting sun accompanied us on the trail of return. Every now and then I glimpsed back to see Koprovsky, standing immovable and perpetual covered in white clouds.
The joy of summiting has always had a self-actualizing quality for me. I can never stop thinking how intimidating a mountain looks from bellow and how small everything else looks from the top. Mountains are an acute visualization of life. Most of the times they look difficult or even impossible to conquer but like any other goal you just have to take the first step and keep going.
The fatigue and all hardships wear off as soon as you reach the top. You can’t stay on the summit forever and even worst, a misstep can lead to an abysmal fall, but there is always another mountain waiting to be climbed.
When to Go
The park is entirely open from 15th of June till the 31st of October. A few winter trails remain open for cross country and alpine skiing around Strbske pleso and Stary Smokovec. For more details about the winter closing you can read the rules of TANAP (national park authority).
The best time to go is probably September and October because of the lower rain probability. Of course it can rain or snow any day especially on higher altitudes.
Where to Stay
Stary Smokovec and Strbske pleso have a plethora of guesthouses and hotels for every budget. At Popradske the choices are only Horsky Hotel (for bookings) in which I’ve stayed and can say that even though it is relative old and plain, it’s clean and got everything including a very decent restaurant and Majlathova (for bookings) cottage in case you need something more luxurious and of course more expensive. They both have exactly the same view.
How to Get There
The closest airport to High Tatras is Poprad though there are not as many regular flights landing there as charters. The closest international airports are Bratislava and Kosice but if there is no other alternative, Krakow in Poland is not very far either.